Lea este artículo en español aquí.
Mike Kohne and Maura Cooper opened Crave Wine Company in Hollister less than a year ago, but they have already proven to be great ambassadors for both San Benito County’s wineries and the wines produced by outside wineries from San Benito County grapes.
Between hosting twice-monthly tasting events with winemakers such as Ser Winery’s Nicole Walsh, Kobza Wines’s Ryan Kobza and Stirm Wine Co’s Ryan Stirm, and curating wine selections for private gatherings and dinners, Crave has become known as a storehouse for the best wines that the county offers.
The events that Kohne and Cooper have lined up for the week of Oct. 9 offer a sampling of their curatorial expertise: an Oct. 12 tasting at Crave showcasing six cabernet pfeffers made with local grapes, an Oct. 14 pairing and presenting of local wines at Farmhouse Cafe for Mike Fisher and Becky Herbert’s Fifth Annual Harvest Dinner and, during the week, the release of the winter selections for their “20” Wine Club.
“We do have a lot of things going on with local wines right now,” Kohne said. “And I think across the board, these events really showcase the diversity of what grows really well here and what is being produced out of San Benito County.”
The “Pfeffer PFlight Night” tasting is the first time that Crave has rounded up identical varietals for a comparative tasting, and the one chosen is deeply rooted in San Benito County’s past. Only about 15 acres of cabernet pfeffer grapes are planted in the county, and it is found almost nowhere else in the world.
Six wines have been selected to show the different approaches winemakers have taken with this remarkable grape, and I have been asked to, according to the announcement, “regale” the guests with stories of San Benito’s wine history.
This event is sold out, but Crave will have many of the wines in stock afterward:
- Kobza 2019 Wirz Vineyard Mourtaou
- DeRose 2019 Cabernet Pfeffer
- Ser 2019 Enz Vineyard Cabernet Pfeffer
- Stirm 2020 Wirz Vineyard Cabernet Pfeffer
- Donkey & Goat 2021 Siletto Vineyard Cabernet Pfeffer
- Stirm 2021 Gimelli Vineyard Cabernet Pfeffer
Some very special wines were also selected for the Harvest Dinner, pairing wines like 2021 Blade and Talon Falanghina, 2022 Lucy Gamay Noir, 2017 Calera De Villiers Vineyard Pinot Noir and 2018 Eden Rift Semillon with scallops, king salmon, Paicines Ranch pork loin and butterscotch apple crisp.
Kohne says there is a special art behind matching the perfect wine to dishes like these.
“More often than not, you’re looking for similarities in flavors,” he said, “but that’s not to say you can’t pair with something with opposite characteristics. It’s really about highlighting the food and showcasing the style with wines that have similar techniques or integrity.”
Herbert said she was excited to have Crave pair the wines and was honored to work in any capacity with Kohne and Cooper.
“They have impeccable taste,” she said, “and a vast knowledge of wines that bring so much to our downtown community.”
Crave is also releasing its “20” wine club offering for the winter quarter, wines that are produced or sourced within a 20-mile radius of the shop’s location on San Benito Street in Hollister. I had the chance to try all four of this quarter’s offerings
The Winter “20” Club Sections
2018 DeRose Viognier ($30) – “This has a leaner style than other viogniers, which I certainly like,” Kohne said. “It has a lot of minerality and a riesling character with great acidity and great notes of nectarine and apricot fruit.” The aroma is sour, but it does not follow into the wine though it does have an acidity that hints of lemon. It is a bright and very dry wine that exudes springtime and is just fun to drink. It is perfect for serving alongside cheese boards or baked appetizers. Winemaker Al DeRose says this is his go-to wine for scallops, and its briskness would make a nice accompaniment to fish or chicken in cream sauces.
2021 Donkey & Goat Cabernet Pfeffer ($38) – From a winery out of Berkeley that sources out of San Benito vineyards, in this case, Siletto, their negrette was the hit of the most recent Vache Society dinner, a gathering of local wine enthusiasts and makers. “It has a light color,” Kohne said, “and it has that classic cabernet pfeffer sort of white pepper character. But it has a lot more weight than you would think just looking at it.” The fruity aroma jumps out of the glass, and the fruit is all there, but there is also a velvety softness to the mouthfeel. It is remarkably complex, and you could easily lose yourself in the experience of drinking it as you try to place each nuisance of flavor. This, to me, is a must-try and a winery to definitely watch though Kohne said the supply on this one is very limited.
2020 Kobza Red Field Blend ($29) – Kobza describes this wine as a “117-year-old vine mix of Mourvedre, zinfandel, Rose of Peru, mourtaou, and an occasional palomino cluster.” This odd assortment all grows on the side of a hill that Kobza has staked out for his own. He picks whatever that hill produces and always makes a truly great wine from it. Full of fruit—dark cherries and strawberries—with a gorgeous aroma and a refined finish, it would pair nicely with almost anything you want to serve with it. I have reviewed different vintages of this wine three times for this series, and it is always a delight, to the point of my naming it the pick of my tastings each time I come across it.
2019 Eden Rift Estate Pinot Noir ($48) – Eden Rift was picked by Wine and Spirits magazine as one of the top 100 wineries in the world and this wine that Crave is showcasing received 92 points from Wine Enthusiast. “This wine displays the prowess of the property and the elegance,” Kohne said, “but it also shows off the structure and beautiful texture of Eden Rift wines.” The aroma is fruity and floral and there is a bit of black tea in the profile, along with red and black fruit and undertones of deep minerality. There is just enough oak to be noticed but like the other tones, it is in perfect balance from start to finish. For me, this is really a sipping wine to be accompanied by conversation rather than food—it does not demand thought as you drink it but it repays contemplation.
Recommendations for future Eat, Drink, Savor articles can be emailed to roberteliason@benitolink.com.
BenitoLink thanks our underwriters, Hollister Super and Windmill Market, for helping to expand the Eat, Drink, Savor series and give our readers the stories that interest them. Hollister Super (two stores in Hollister) and Windmill Market (in San Juan Bautista) support reporting on the inspired and creative people behind the many delicious food and drink products made in San Benito County. All editorial decisions are made by BenitoLink.
