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There are really two questions you could ask yourself when beholding the fully loaded version of Ivan’s Baked Potatoes. The first might be, “Is there really a potato underneath that huge pile of bacon and carne asada?” And the second, naturally, would be, “Who’s Ivan?”
Starting with the last question first, Ivan is the youngest son of founders Laura and Juan Cosio. They renamed the business for him 18 years ago, shortly after his birth. It was originally named “Charlie’s Corn,” after their eldest son, Carlos, who was one year old when the business was founded in 1998.
“My dad was a field worker, and my mom works at Lucky’s,” said middle child Vanessa Cosio. “They decided that they wanted to try something new and get some extra income because his work was taking a toll on him.”
Vanessa has yet to have the business named after her. She says she does not mind.
Juan was passing through Texas on his way to Mexico with his brother-in-law when he saw his first roaster oven. Intrigued, the Cosios purchased a small one that could bake around 200 potatoes, and they began selling at the Watsonville Farmers Market.
“Around that time,” Vanessa said, “the market was basically fruits and veggies. They wouldn’t really sell hot foods. It was very difficult for them to get the business rolling because people didn’t really know our product.”
Vanessa said her parents experienced more losses than gains for the first couple of years, but they continued to try to build their market.
“One thing that I admire about my parents is that they never stopped,” she said. “They said, ‘Obviously, there are bad days, but if we keep pushing, we can definitely grow.’ And, yeah, this is us right now.”
Word of mouth was key, but a custom-made roaster to replace the first one didn’t hurt. Baking at 500 degrees, it’s capable of producing 500 perfectly tender potatoes in an hour.
“The thing we love about it,” Vanessa said, “is that the potatoes cook very slowly by themselves. They aren’t rushed, and that is how you get the perfect potato. And we don’t do the whole batch at once, to keep the quality up.”
They use Idaho potatoes trucked in directly from the Potato State itself. And the batches are timed based on experience: Vanessa says that potatoes that have been cooked for too long or have been sitting around beyond a certain point have a noticeable change in color, texture and taste.
The roaster is also used to prepare the corn, which is cooked in the husk and takes around 15 minutes to reach perfection.
Vanessa said that preparations for selling at the farmer’s market begin the day before, with an inventory of various toppings, including salt, butter, sour cream, cheese, green onions, and jalapeños.
The meat—carne asada—is lightly seasoned with salt and grilled in a barbecue at their commissary kitchen.
The bacon is also prepared the day before. Ivan recently shifted from using bacon bits to cooking whole slices and then chopping them for use—a change that reflects customer preference.
On the day of the market, Vanessa said the crew arrives two or three hours early to set up and get the roaster up to temperature, so that the first batch of potatoes is ready when customers arrive.
Regular customer Michelle Riddle visits the Farmers Market every Wednesday to treat herself to her favorite potato, which features green onions, sour cream, cheese and bacon. For her, it is a throwback to when her parents used to make them for dinner at home.
“My dad used to do them on the grill,” she said, “but they were not quite that big. I’m not sure what they use for cooking, but they’re better here. Eating half of one makes me full, so I can save the rest for another night, which is nice.”
Vanessa said that her favorite is the potato with corn and bacon, which she describes as a “good mixture,” and for just the corn, she goes for the fully loaded version with butter, hot sauce, mayo and Parmesan cheese.
Describing Hollister as “Ivan’s second home,” after Watsonville, where they got their start, Vanessa said she and her brothers take pride in participating in as many community events as they can.
“More than anything,” she said, “we love meeting new people and getting positive feedback from all of our customers. And I love being united with my two brothers and watching our business grow.”
A schedule of appearances by Ivan’s Baked Potatoes in Monterey, Santa Cruz and San Benito is available on its website, TikTok, Facebook and Instagram.
Recommendations for future Eat, Drink, Savor articles can be emailed to roberteliason@benitolink.com.
BenitoLink thanks our underwriters, Hollister Super and Windmill Market, for helping to expand the Eat, Drink, Savor series and give our readers the stories that interest them. Hollister Super (two stores in Hollister) and Windmill Market (in San Juan Bautista) support reporting on the inspired and creative people behind the many delicious food and drink products made in San Benito County. All editorial decisions are made by BenitoLink.
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