Dan Nino, David Westrick and Lilly Mendonsa. Photo by Robert Eliason.
David Westrick and Lilly Mendonsa. Photo by Robert Eliason.

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It was a gathering of greats at the 23rd annual Cowboy Dinner at Bolado Park: Mike Mansmith on the barbecue, Grillin & Chillin’s Chuck Frowein behind the bar, a royal court of local and visiting Rodeo Queens and more than 850 hungry participants, spectators and organizers who had assembled on June 28 for the San Benito County Saddle Horse Show and Rodeo.

But beyond the smoked prime rib, the medley of grilled vegetables, and the best garlic bread around, there was a greater purpose: an auction to benefit the county’s Saddle Horse Association and to share a bit of the proceeds that night in the form of $2,000 scholarships awarded to two young rodeo veterans, Lilly Mendonsa and Dan Nino.

“I’ve been asking for a while if we could make the scholarships,” said Cindy King, one of the association’s board of directors. “These young people have helped at the rodeo and horse show for years, and I am happy we are giving something back to them.”

Both recipients began competing in the rodeo at a very early age, and both plan to attend California Polytechnic State University in San Luis Obispo. Mendonsa will focus on agricultural and bioresource engineering, while Nino’s interests lie in advancing agricultural technology, including the development of automated harvesting equipment.

“Agriculture is vital to this community, ” Nino said, “because it’s how the majority of our people in our community make a living. And it’s important because no agriculture, no food.” 

This year, Mendonsa competed in the barrel racing, the family team roping, the open team roping, the breakaway roping, and the ribbon roping, while Nino competed in the team roping, calf roping, and wooden roping.

For Mendonsa, the rodeo is an opportunity to help publicize and preserve the Western lifestyle. 

“Our show has been around a long time,” she said, “and it’s a unique part of the lives of many people in the county. It is a way to stay true to our county’s roots.”

  • Mike Mansmith grilling veggies. Photo by Robert Eliason.
  • Prime rib, the Mansmith way. Photo by Robert Eliason.
  • Mike Mansmith cutting prime rib. Photo by Robert Eliason.
  • The best garlic bread in the county. Photo by Robert Eliason.
  • Chuck Frowein, owner of Grillin & Chillin. Photo by Robert Eliason.
  • Mark and Lisa Wright. Photo by Robert Eliason.

The Cowboy Dinner was first held in 2002, rising from a need to inject new life into the show’s traditional Saturday night cowboy dance. Mark Wright, a member of the board of directors at the time, said that the steady decline in attendance at the dance led to the decision to add the dinner. 

The first year we did it,” he said, “we had about 750 people come. Emilio Casillas cooked a traditional ranch dinner, it was my first time as an auctioneer, and that was the beginning of the whole thing.”

Wright’s wife, Lisa, said the event just naturally worked into the flow of the rodeo and had created its own tradition.

“People get older,” she said, “and soon, they are bringing their grandkids.  It’s in the middle of three days of activity, and it gives people a chance to sit and catch up as a segue into the final performance on Sunday.”

According to Corrisa King, one of the organizers and Miss San Benito Rodeo 2017, preparations for the dinner begin in January with emailed requests for live and silent auction items, which are a major fundraiser for the association. 

  • Ramona Koch with the winner of the poster. Photo by Robert Eliason.
  • BR Beef silent action donation. Photo by Robert Eliason.
  • Live auction painting. Photo by Robert Eliason.
  • Grillin & Chillin Alehouse donation. Photo by Robert Eliason.
  • Saddle Horse Show donation. Photo by Robert Eliason.

This year’s donations included tickets to the National Finals Rodeo in Las Vegas, an equestrian painting by Sherol Rosati Bernardo, a day of fishing at the Bourdet Ranch,  and a breeding fee to Issac Starlight at the 808 Ranch. 

The generosity of the bidders can be seen in some of the prices realized at the auction: Tina Bourdet’s apricot bars easily sold for $1,000, Jae Eade’s Rum cake commanded a hammer price of $700, and dinner for eight at The Wool Growers Restaurant in Los Banos, with limousine transportation, quickly rose to $3,500

The top item, at $4,000, was a framed copy of the Saddle Horse and Rodeo poster, with the added incentive that the winning bidder would have their photo taken with the poster’s subject, local horse trainer Ramona Koch.

For all the distractions of the various festivities, the true star of the evening was the Cowboy Dinner itself, prepared on the massive grills of Mansmith’s BBQ under the watchful eye of local food icon, Mike Mansmith. 

Arranged on tables buffet-style, the dinner began with a fresh green salad featuring sliced tomatoes and onions, accompanied by a choice of ranch or Italian dressing. A medley of lightly seasoned grilled vegetables, including mushrooms, asparagus, peppers, and onions, was next, followed by sliced potatoes layered with a blend of cheddar cheeses that had been baked to a golden brown. 

A huge bowl of sliced French bread, infused with plenty of garlic and butter, came next and proved to be a momentary showstopper as people weighed their doctor’s advice on carbs against the wildly aromatic scent. 

(I got two slices and could not resist the temptation to eat one on the way back to the table.)

The prime rib had the tough job of living up to the expectations of a plaza packed full of cowboys. However, since Mansmith’s has spent more than 30 years catering to San Benito County’s tastes, most of the diners have grown up with their BBQ as the gold standard. 

Cut into thick steak slices, the meat was rare to medium rare and, by diner consensus, weighed in at around a pound each. Even at that thickness, it was fork tender, and the light seasoning offered a delicious counterpoint to the gently smoked flavor. 

At $45 per plate, including after-dinner dancing with music by Southbound 101, it was an unmatchable bargain. And whether it was a matter of everyone showing up hungry, understandable after the day’s heavy rodeo action, or just the irresistible delectability of the prime rib, very few of the diners needed a leftover container. 

“It’s always an amazing event,” said Mark Wright. “It’s a great way to bring the community together to enjoy a great meal. It’s a wonderful, wonderful tradition.”

A plate from the Cowboy Dinner . Photo by Robert Eliason.
A plate from the Cowboy Dinner . Photo by Robert Eliason.

Auction items with prices realized:

  • Framed 2025 Saddle Horse and Rodeo Poster – $4,000
  • Two tickets to the National Finals Rodeo – $3,500
  • Dinner for eight at Wool Growers in Los Banos, including limo – $3,500
  • Three nights in a Lake Tahoe condo- $3,000
  • Three days in an Avila Beach condo – $1,800
  • A day of fishing at the Bourdet Ranch  – $1,600
  • Painting by Sherol Rosati Bernardo – $1,000
  • Tina Bourdet’s apricot bars – photo $1,000
  • Breeding fee to Issac Starlight at the 808 Ranch – $1,000
  • Taryn Wright’s Cookie sampler $1,000
  • Giants vs. Mets tickets for 4 – $900
  • Wine table made by Brad Melton- $800
  • Wine barrel patio set made by Bernie Ramirez – $700 
  • Jae Eade’s Rum cake – $700
  • Apricot sampler made by Tina Enz – $500
  • Desire 2B custom brand & necklace – $500
  • A painting of a horse donated by the VFW – $300
  • Cake Pops made by Franchesca Donati – $300 
Live and silent action donors
Live and silent action donors

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Ramona Koch and her enduring passion

Recommendations for future Eat, Drink, Savor articles can be emailed to roberteliason@benitolink.com.

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