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Get-togethers around the holidays are a perfect opportunity for experimenting with new wines or introducing favorites to family and friends. I have collected some of my favorite wines from this year’s tastings, all from locally sourced vines.
While I had some amazing wines from the San Benito County triumvirate, Calera, Eden Rift and de Rose, I have held my list to some of the smaller winemakers who are producing from varietals that are, for the most part, unique to the county and an important part of the local wine growing heritage, but less known outside of this area.
That situation is rapidly changing. A recent spate of interest, triggered by a recent San Francisco Chronicle article on cabernet pfeffer, is now shining a light on some of these otherwise hidden gems and competition for the grapes has increased dramatically.
I have also asked Mike Kohne and Maura Cooper of Crave Wine Co. to suggest some of the wines that have stood out during their first year in business that would be perfect for gifting or serving during the season. It’s a wide-ranging list that includes two local wines, a Calera pinot noir and an Eden Rift late harvest Semillon, that are no longer available from the wineries.
My local favorites:
2021 Blade and Talon Falanghina ($31.99) – A recent addition to the San Benito County wine scene, Nat Wong’s Blade and Talon winery sources primarily from Siletto Family Vineyards in Tres Pinos, where Wong works as general manager. This varietal can be traced to the Roman Empire, and the wine itself is soft and engaging, with a ripe apple aroma and a light floral taste. It is a perfect match for a before-meal charcuterie board but would also go stunningly well with fish, turkey, or dishes with cream sauces.
2020 Kobza Field Blend ($27.99) – Consistently one of my favorite wines with each new vintage, Ryan Kobza blends whatever happens to grow on one particular hill planted 120 years ago at Wirz Vineyard. Mourvedre (50%) and zinfandel (40%) make up the bulk, with some cabernet pfeffer, palomino, and a couple of other mystery vines making up the rest. Light tannins give way to berries and cherries and a clean smooth finish, making this a bright and easy sip that would go well with baked ham or short ribs.
2019 Ser Cabernet Pfeffer ($44.99) – Souced from Wirz Vineyard, there are very few acres of this fascinating varietal left in the world. A highly floral aroma with accents of the white pepper that gives the grape its name, raspberries, pomegranates and cranberries are the predominant flavors, and, of course, the lingering pepper finish with a dash of allspice is as elegant as it is unusual. Wine Enthusiast gave this a well-deserved 93 points, and this is one of my absolute favorites of the year.
2021 Los Chuchaquis “Bandido” Negrette Blend ($27.99) – Though the blend varies from year to year, Ryan Stirm’s masterful blend of 47% negrette, 28% petit verdot and 25% cabernet sauvignon has been on my radar for a while. Almost all of the world’s production of negrette comes from San Benito County, and this grape has been a local treasure since Theophile Vaché planted it at what is now De Rose Vineyard in 1855. Sourced from Wirz Vineyard in Cienega Valley, this wine has an appealing dried fruit and dark chocolate aroma, and a complex mix of the three grapes brings bitter herbs, dried plums, a savory minerality, and fruit, fruit, fruit for days.
2022 Donkey & Goat Siletto Vineyard Negrette ($37.99) – A more straightforward negrette, this wine showcases the rich aromatics and the fruit-forward nature of the grape, with all of the attendant notes of pepper, meadow flowers and stone fruits. Wine Enthusiasts rates this at 92 points, and it proved to be a hit at the most recent Vaché Society dinner. If you have never had negrette, this is a good entry point, and I suspect will instantly make you a fan. And if you are having guests from out of the county, this unique-to-San-Benito, steak-and-mushroom wine will most likely wow them.
Suggestions from Crave:
2022 DeLille Cellars Métier Sauvignon Blanc ($24.99) – Aged in 8% new oak, Cooper describes this wine as having a citrusy herbaceousness and a nice texture. “This is for people who like things right in the middle,” she said. “It’s not overly zesty, but very palatable and incredibly versatile.” Light in character, there is a peachy aroma that leads to complex notes of ripe nectarines and plums on the palate that had this one popping up on several “Best of the Year” lists and scoring 91 points from both Jeb Dunnuck and Wine Spectator.
2022 Robert Lloyd Chardonnay ($39.99) – Lloyd learned the craft of fine chardonnays working at La Crema and Rambauer, which has led him to create this beautiful wine. It carries a bright acidity married to an inherently creamy and soft mouthfeel. There is an aroma of crushed lantana and just enough butter to make itself known without overwhelming your taste buds. “It has a broad spectrum rich, with an acidity that is right up front that drifts away into a nice finish,” Kohne said. “We had this as our wine of the week a while ago and cases of the stuff were just walking out.” He recommends serving it with steak-style fish, like Ahi, or pasta with cream sauce, but I could be happy just sipping it on its own to keep up the continuity of flavor..
2022 Ridge Grenache Blanc ($34.99) – 86% Grenache Blanc and 14% Picpoul, this wine is a beautiful rose gold color with an aroma of peach and melon. With balanced acidity and a touch of clean minerality, it finishes with a pleasing burst of a cherry-lime gumdrop flavor. This is a winner and could be served nicely along with blue cheese and prosciutto on crackers or be sipped while nibbling on a freshly baked croissant.
2022 Birichino Grenache ($31.99) – While the Cienega Valley can lay claim to having the oldest continuous commercial vineyards in California, Gilroy also has a long history of winemaking, and this wine is made from 150-year-old grenache vines grown at Besson Vineyard. The fruit is in high demand—Ian Brand also uses it when it is available—and after trying this wine, it is easy to see why. “This is a fantastic food wine,” said Kohne. “These old vines have so much flavor, and then there is so much fruit and acidity, like a cranberry cocktail, that it fits nicely with meats like rib roast or turkey.” The rich fruit is definitely the selling point here, but it also has subtle notes of nutmeg and allspice.
2017 Calera Mills Vineyard Pinot Noir ($73.99) – If you are looking for a local wine guaranteed to impress, it is hard to beat any of the Calera pinots, and this one is world-class, having picked up a 92 from Wine Spectator, a 91 from Wine Enthusiast, a 93 from Wine & Spirits, and a 97 from Jeb Dunnuck. Sold out at the winery, Cooper chose this wine for its fidelity to the Burgundian style. It carries a baking spice, dark fruit and leather aroma, which resolves in the tasting with smooth waves of red currents, black tea, dark cherries, and just enough pepper and acid to give it a rich finish. The complexity opens as the wine breathes, welcoming your attention but not demanding it. It would go exceptionally well with prime rib, roast turkey or mushroom risotto but is stunning on its own.
2021 Freestone Occidental Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($64.99) – Another pinot that has earned substantial acclaim, it was awarded 98 points by Wine Advocate, 96 points by The Wine Independent, 95 points by Jeb Dunnick and 94 points by Wine Spectator. The demand for the wine has made it difficult to find, but Crave got the nod on a few cases and has been carrying it since they opened a year ago. “It is absolutely delicious,” said Kohne. “It is powerful and has weight, but it is also light and ethereal at the same time. It has black cherry and late summer plum notes and an aroma that pops right out of the glass.” There is a smokey base with a little tannin at the start, a wave of acidity and a massive amount of fruit, then a finish that goes on forever. A great gifting wine if you can bear to give it away.
2018 Domaine Eden Cabernet Sauvignon ($44.99) – A complex blend of 82% cabernet, 13% merlot, 2% cabernet franc, 2% petit verdot and 1% malbec, this wine came in at #2 on Wine Spectator’s top 100 wines of the year. “This wine just reminds me of the holidays,” Kohne said. “It has those baking spice characters and a complex blend that brings a little bit of everything into it: plums and mountain fruit with a nice tannin structure.” Another highly praised wine, this one scored 94 points from Wine Enthusiast, 93 from Wine and Spirits, and 91 from Wine Spectator. Black fruits and dark chocolate predominate, with a mouthwatering acidity that makes you want more. Kohne suggests herbed goat cheese as one accompaniment, but it would fit in well with lamb or grilled meats.
2018 Eden Rift Griva Vineyard Late Harvest Semillon (375 ml, $27.99) – Not available through the winery, this dessert wine with notes of apricot-and-creme-brulee was a hit at Mike Fisher and Becky Herbert’s Fifth Annual Harvest Dinner on Oct. 14 at Farmhouse Cafe. “This one is a true gem,” Cooper said, “and we are very excited to have it to offer. So many formal meals end with a port or dessert wine, and this is a really fun one to have at the table.” Not overly sweet and with a syrupy density, I would serve this with cheesecake or angel food cake or as a treat in the morning, a tasty addition to an elegant breakfast.
Albert Bichot Cremant de Bourgogne Brut Reserve ($29.99) – A blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, Cooper describes this as a “crowd pleaser,” saying it is an incredible value and very popular with Crave’s customers. Fermented for 18 months, there is a gorgeous vibrancy to this one without losing a smooth creaminess. There are abundant apple, pear and brioche notes that make this fruity and dry method champenoise brut perfect for celebrations but also great to have with meats like poached fish or turkey.
Recommendations for future Eat, Drink, Savor articles can be emailed to roberteliason@benitolink.com.
BenitoLink thanks our underwriters, Hollister Super and Windmill Market, for helping to expand the Eat, Drink, Savor series and give our readers the stories that interest them. Hollister Super (two stores in Hollister) and Windmill Market (in San Juan Bautista) support reporting on the inspired and creative people behind the many delicious food and drink products made in San Benito County. All editorial decisions are made by BenitoLink.
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