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Crave Wine Co. celebrated its one-year anniversary on Jan. 6 with a nine-hour party that featured live music, a room packed with loyal customers and a variety of fine wines both local and foreign.
“We very much appreciate the warm welcome and support of this community,” said Maura Cooper, who co-owns Crave with Mike Kohne. “It shows that if you have an opportunity to do something you really believe in, you’ve got to take it because it really paid off for us that night.”
Initially, Crave struggled with delays as they dealt with the shifting sands of Hollister’s code enforcement, but after a few soft openings, they hit the ground running with the first in a series of tasting events, “Old World vs. New World,” where they compared varietals drawn from around the world with their local counterparts.
“I think our original concept was more like a tasting room salon style,” Kohne said, “where there would be multiple tastings and we just realized really early that wasn’t possible. Like any small business, we have been quick to move and change direction.”
Since then, they have staged ticketed evenings celebrating wines from some of the premiere winemakers who source grapes from San Benito County, like Nichole Walsh and Ryan Stirm, along with themed nights, like their Pfeffer Flight Night, which highlighted the takes of half a dozen wineries on a grape that is unique to this area.
“These events have been some of the real standout moments for me,” Cooper said. “People absolutely love having all of these dedicated professionals come into our wine shop and share their knowledge and experience.”
Crave has become a must-visit spot for wine professionals and local connoisseurs, such as BenitoLink trustee Kris Waller, who might be a little biased since the shop always features wines made by her two sons, Calera’s Mike Waller and Eden Rift’s Cory Waller.
“Mike and Maura went through a lot to be able to open Crave,” Kris Waller said, “so I congratulate them on their one-year anniversary. I love coming here. Their knowledge of wine, the variety of wines and beer available, and their great personalities make Crave a perfect addition to our downtown.”
Another high point of the year was collaborating with chefs Mike Fisher and Becky Herbert on their Fifth Annual Harvest, and Kohne is hoping to work with them again on a series of winemaker dinners starting in April.
“We want to continue tying food into the wine experience,” Kohne said. “Wine is more than just what you pour into a glass. It can be a contemplation based on thought-provoking pairings of various dishes and fine wines.”
Herbert, who owns the Farmhouse Cafe across the street from Crave, is also an enthusiastic customer who says she is always excited to learn what is on the menu and learn each wine’s history.
“I think their impeccable taste in wines has added so much value to the downtown area,” Herbert said. “I love their level of personable service—you know, it’s kind of like ‘Cheers’: when you walk in, they always remember what you like.”
One recent addition to the shop is their “Cellar List,” a curated collection of harder-to-find wines that are in short quantities. “We are trying to bring different experiences in the wine world to the customers,” Kohne said. “Unlike a winery, we can’t do a cave tour or vineyard hikes, so this gives us the ability to showcase the beauty of older wines from different grapes and producers.”
There are classic San Benito County Wines, of course, such as a 2019 Calera Mt. Harlan Chardonnay that scored 93 points from Wine Enthusiast. But there are Napa, Sonoma and Santa Cruz wines as well, including a 2013 Mount Eden Cabernet that scored 96 points from Wine Advisor, along with French Bordeaux, Burgundies and Rhones, Spanish Garnacha and Italian Barolos.
There is also a selection of dessert wines, including a 2011 Chateau Suduiraut Premier Cru Classe Sauternes that scored 96 points from Wine and Spectator and a 2000 Vintage Port from Warre’s that scored 94 points from Wine and Spirits.
While Kohne and Cooper steadily increased their inventory over the last year, they have kept a goal of having at least 25% of the wines they carry be produced locally or sourced from vineyards within the county.
“Independent wineries love to see this sort of business exist,” Kohne said, “because there’s a spot where you can have your story told. And there is a reason these wines are on the shelves that goes beyond the price point. We are hoping to get people talking about this area again.”
The Wines of Crave
2021 Private property Brut Rosé – Vibrant, bright and fruity, this rosé sparkles with hints of cherries, raspberries and red apples. It has a restrained sweetness to it that is balanced by a refreshing downturn of acid and a modest yeastiness, making it a great companion to shortbread cookies or cheesecake. Just a delightful wine and highly recommended.
2019 Precedent Wirz Vineyard Riesling – “This one is really fun,” Kohne said. “It is a tribute to old world wine making.” Aged for 40 months, it is a brisk wine that will remind you of a sunny spring day. Upfront but gentle acidity and citrus flavors give it an appealing hint of Mexican lime, with the floral features bringing in orange blossom notes.
2022 Margerum M5 – Advertised as five grapes from 13 vineyards, this compelling Rhone blend is 39% grenache, 32% syrah, 15% mourvèdre, 7% counoise and 7% cinsault. The 2021 vintage made the Wine and Spectator Top 100 list, and this one is distinctive on its own: smooth, fruit foreward and gorgeously complex, with berries, spices, and herbs mixing and mingling over a base of dark and fruity grenache. The inviting aroma of ripe cherries and strawberries is a selling point in itself. At $25, my favorite of the wines I tried and I could not resist buying a couple bottles.
2021 adroît Trousseau – “Trousseau is another one of those historically relevant grapes grown in San Benito County,” Kohne said. “It was thought for a long time to be cabernet pfeffer and it has some of the same peppery characteristics.” The pepper is there, particularly in the aroma, and there are notes of dried French herbs and raspberry leather. Wine Spectator awarded this wine 91 points.
2022 Ryme Frappato – Sourced from Siletto Family Vineyards and fermented in amphorae, the wine from this obscure Italian grape is pink verging on orange and has a highly aromatic nose of cranberries, strawberries and fresh leather. It has a very light body and acidity and would be perfect with a little warm French bread and brie.
Recommendations for future Eat, Drink, Savor articles can be emailed to roberteliason@benitolink.com.
BenitoLink thanks our underwriters, Hollister Super and Windmill Market, for helping to expand the Eat, Drink, Savor series and give our readers the stories that interest them. Hollister Super (two stores in Hollister) and Windmill Market (in San Juan Bautista) support reporting on the inspired and creative people behind the many delicious food and drink products made in San Benito County. All editorial decisions are made by BenitoLink.
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