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Slightly set back from the sidewalk and tucked between two larger buildings, Heidy’s Coffee Restaurant resembles a charming little house amid the constant bustle of Hollister’s Fourth Street. The interior maintains the cozy familiarity, with seating for around 50 and three large video screens displaying a crackling fireplace, Spanish-language music videos, and Bob Ross eternally painting his happy little trees and clouds.
The food, however, is anything but the quaint breakfast-and-lunch offerings of a typical brunch spot. Mingling authentic Oaxacan recipes developed by Chef Crispin Santos Coronel and his mother-in-law, Teresa Hernandez, who are co-owners in the business, with American and Italian dishes derived from Coronel’s years with two of the finest restaurants in Carmel, there is an effortless elegance to even the simplest dishes.
“We always get compliments on how fresh and full of flavor everything is here,” Coronel said. “We put a lot of effort and time and love into our dishes, and seeing our customers happy makes me happy, too.”
Coronel came to the United States from Mexico 28 years ago, when he was 16. His dream then was to earn enough money to build a house for his mother and support his brothers, who were in school.
“My first work here was washing dishes at the Rio Grill and Il Fornaio in Carmel,” he said. “I had a double shift, in the morning and the afternoon. So, yes, I worked very hard.”
Soon, Coronel was climbing the ladder, learning to cook steaks and pasta, and even picking up some knowledge of Chinese dishes. Working his way into a position of sous-chef, his own dream of the future began to develop.
“I was learning all these styles of cooking,” he said, “which were very different from Mexican food. And I saw how to run a restaurant. I put it in my head that in the future, I wanted to open my own place.”
After 15 years, Coronel moved to Habanero’s Grill & Cantina in Monterey after passing an audition by cooking 10 dishes for the owners. They were looking for “a real Mexican chef with authentic seasonings,” he said, and he worked there for two years, creating the menu.
He met his wife, Erika, in 2010, and they moved to Gilroy. Coronel temporarily left the restaurant world to work in the fields for two years, picking berries with his wife and Hernandez.
Coronel returned to cooking in 2012 at El Zócalo de Oaxaca in Gilroy, a traditional Oaxacan restaurant serving dishes such as mole and enchiladas. He ran it for three years before moving on to house painting, repairs, and general construction.
“The companies paid me good money,” he said, “more than I made cooking. I learned quickly, and it allowed me to save money.”
Tragedy struck in 2019 when Coronel’s wife and mother-in-law were in a car accident. He stopped working and stayed home to care for them and his children.
“It was a very hard and complicated time,” he said. “My wife had 14 fractures in her body. Eventually, when they were able to walk again, I returned to work. When the insurance claim was settled, I told them we should invest the money.”
Hernandez asked if he wanted to open a restaurant with her, and he agreed, saying it was his dream to have a kitchen, “or even a taco cart.”
The investment turned out to be Heidy’s, named after Coronel’s daughter. They took over the former location of Cozy Cup Cafe from the family following the death of owner Frank Halayay from respiratory failure due to COVID-19.
“We both know how to cook really well,” Hernandez said. “I knew we would be good at it, and we wanted everybody to taste our food. We put in all new equipment and opened on Nov. 3, 2023.”
It is difficult to pin down a single house specialty, though there is one so named: the Miguel’s Special, with two eggs, two pancakes, house potatoes and a choice of two sausages, two strips of bacon or ham steak. Coronel describes it as “a little bit of everything,” and there is enough food to be a light breakfast for two.
There is a large selection of omelettes, with eggs that are fluffy to the point of being pillowy. I favor the veggie version, with spinach, mushrooms, onions, bell peppers, avocado and tomatoes topped with melted mozzarella cheese. A splash of the deep-red and briskly spicy house salsa here is a must.
For kids (or anyone craving a morning sugar rush), there are chocolate chip pancakes and French toast, especially the banana-and-strawberry version topped with Nutella. For others seeking some fun and color, the fruit and yogurt bowl, topped with blueberries, strawberries, grapes and granola, is a nice choice.
I was told years ago that there is one cardinal rule in dining: never eat anything bigger than your head. But a couple of the sandwiches on the lunch menu come close to challenging it.
First, there is the Cowboy Burger, which Coronel is particularly proud of, as he should be. It’s a six-ounce patty with two wide, thick slices of bacon, avocado, and jack cheese, kicked up with grilled mushrooms, onions and jalapeños. I suggest grabbing the sweet potato fries for another layer of rich flavor.
Another is the Cubano, piled high with ham, turkey, bacon, and avocado, slathered in a house-made chipotle mayo and served on a telera roll. You will struggle to open your mouth wide enough to take that first bite, but it is absolutely worth it.
Just as hefty, though perhaps a touch more calorie-friendly, the Cobb salad is a mountain of sliced roast turkey and chopped bacon, with blue cheese crumbles, tomatoes and a hard boiled egg served with blue cheese dressing.
There is also a version of the Rio Grill clam chowder with celery, onion, garlic, potatoes, and half-and-half that BenitoLink reporter and soup taste-tester Adam Bell pronounced “creamy and delicious.”
I have had other dishes on the menu on previous trips to Heidy’s, including an excellent French Dip, but the standouts on this visit were two Mexican-inspired items, one on the regular menu and one special, that Hernandez said are there by customer demand.
The Green Chilaquiles, offered daily, comes with two eggs and an option to add carne asada. The sauce, a bright citrusy blend of tomatillos, jalapeños, cilantro, garlic, and cumin, was developed by Hernandez when she was working in the fields selling tamales.
The special on the day I was there was the Enchiladas Diablas, shredded chicken enchiladas smothered in a red sauce based on a recipe handed down to Coronel by his mother. Made with California chilies, spicy small chilies, garlic, onions and cumin, the secret ingredient here is a dash of epazote, which gives the brick-red sauce a touch of oregano and anise. (This one is a must-try when it is available.)
The Mexican theme continues with two scramblers featuring nopales: the veggie-based Aztec and the chorizo Mayan version. The red sauce can also be substituted in the chilaquiles.
With breakfast and lunch down to a science, Coronel is strongly considering opening for dinner, with a menu focused on steaks and Italian dishes à la Il Forno and the Rio Grill. He also hopes he is inspiring his kitchen staff to follow in his footsteps and pursue their own culinary dreams.
“I like to teach new people,” he said. “I would like my employees to be able to create their own businesses in the future. We are pleased with how the community has responded to us, and we want to share that with others.”
Heidy’s Coffee Restaurant
380 4th St, Hollister
(831) 313-0170
Hours: 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily
Heidy’s on Facebook and Instagram
Recommendations for future Eat, Drink, Savor articles can be emailed to roberteliason@benitolink.com.
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