Winemaker Ian Brand thrives among the palette of unique varietals that local vineyards like Vista Verde, Siletto, Enz, and Wirz provide him as he makes wines that few would take the same time or care to create. The results, as presented at a March 30 tasting event for I. Brand & Family Wines at Crave Wine Company by Brand’s associate, sommelier Erin Herendeen Hill, are wines that do not introduce themselves with a dazzling fanfare but rather present quietly, as fascinating and elegant friends.
“The idea behind Ian’s wines is ‘place in space,’ which is showcasing great varietals where they are grown,” Herendeen Hill said. “He tries to be true to how the old world presented those varietals rather than morphing them into something else here for the domestic market.”
Herendeen Hill began working with Brand in 2016, starting in the tasting room and moving on in 2019 to wholesale marketing.
“I started part-time, and I fell in love with his wines,” she said. “I never thought I would work with just one winery, but he has such a slew of varietals and opportunities, it became quite interesting and kept me engaged.”
She now represents all three of Brand’s lines, I. Brand & Family, La Marea and Le P’tit Paysan, and is intimately familiar with the local vineyards and the grapes they produce.
“Personally,” she said, “I like the way the fruit shows up in San Benito County. The ripeness you get from the lower sugars, the dynamic situation with the soil structures and the way the San Andreas Fault runs right through it makes this area special geologically. He scours some very unique locales and at this point in his career, he has the accessibility to really special small sites that are quite outstanding.”
Crave co-owner Mike Kohne said that he loves Brand’s wines because of his knack for finding the most interesting local site where grapes are grown.
“The Zabala Vineyard sauvignon blanc, for example, is from one of the rockiest vineyards I have come across,” he said. “It is very nutrient deprived and, because of that, it is very low yield which gives a real richness to the wine. He is always out there exploring and finding the next hidden gems.”
When pressed for the secret to Ian Brand’s approach to winemaking, he offered a simple observation: “Ian finds good fruit and then does not mess it up.”
Between times when Herendeen Hill was presenting her wines to the group at the tasting or circulating to ask questions, I was able to chat with her about the remarkable wines she had selected from the I. Brand cellar.
The Wines of Ian Brand
Ian Brand 2021 Arneis ($29.99) – It is sourced from Vista Verde Vineyard in Paicines. Williams Selyem winery only uses about 10% of the grapes they grow at Vista Verde, and the rest are highly sought after by winemakers around the state. According to Herendeen Hill, whole clusters are pressed, then barrel fermented and allowed to rest on the lees for over six months. The result is a wine with a lemon blossom aroma that leads to citrusy notes of orange peels blended with dried apricots and thyme. There is a rich minerality and a sharp acid feel that hits the roof of your mouth, then fades to a finish. Herendeen Hill recommends pairing this wine with mussels.
Paysan 2021 Sauvignon Blanc ($21.99) – It is sourced from Zabala Vineyard near the Arroyo Seco River, one of the rockiest vineyards in the world, and made with 100% Sauvignon Blanc Musqué clone. With a floral aroma of green leaves and sunflowers mingling with fresh-cut lime, this wine sparkles on the lips and offers a fruit-forward orange acidity on the palate with a mingling of herbs that rounds down to a smooth finish. It is a refreshing wine for the outdoors—think chicken salad sandwiches in a meadow or grilled trout by a stream.
Le P’tit Paysan 2020 Rosè ($18.99) – It is sourced from Central Coast vineyards around the Arroyo Seco River and the San Benito Arroyo. A blend of 75% mourvèdre, 18% grenache, and 7% cinsault, Herendeen Hill said the wine is fermented in small lots in cold temperatures to preserve the luscious aromatics, snappy acidity, and the panoply of bright flavors. She tastes watermelon, and perhaps the power of suggestion makes it so, but it is watermelon closer to the rinds, where it becomes less sweet and more of a base flavor. I was drawn to the layers of strawberries, white pepper, and crisp mineral water. It is a delight—if you have dismissed rosès as sweet and one-dimensional, this one will change your mind.
2020 Paysan P’tit Pape, Rhône-Style Red Blend ($25) – This was not included in the tasting, but I had the chance to try it before things got started. The aroma is of grape skins and raspberries, which echo on the palate along with dried darker berries, a touch of sweetness, and an elevated acid. Herendeen Hill describes it as “berries all day,” and suggests pairing it with spring lamb.
Ian Brand 2020 Cabernet Franc ($34.09) – 100% cabernet franc that is sourced from Bayly Ranch in Paicines. “This is a bright wine with a lot of sparkle to it,” Herendeen Hill said “It’s not overwhelming—and it is softer and prettier than his other cabernet franc.” It is a light wine with notes of roasted pepper and sage with enough tannin to provide a nice finish without wearing out its welcome. It is a nice drinking wine with enough fruit to keep you engaged as you nibble on some aged cheddar or french bread.
Le P’tit Paysan 2020 Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon ($24.99) – It is sourced from Brigantino, Wheeler and Tres Pinos Creek vineyards. While other winemakers may focus on the heavier body and the tannins that can be found in a cabernet, Brand takes a lighter touch and focuses on the fruit, allowing just hints of a more formal wine. Made from 91% cabernet, 6% petite verdot, and 3% cabernet franc, the grapes are sourced from vines ranging from 45 to 75 years old. It has blackberries and dark cherries galore with a bit of herbs, allspice, and pepper, with a beautiful mouthfeel and finishes with nothing to weigh it down. I have enjoyed this wine before at Crave, and it is my pick of the tasting for its elegance and ease of drinking.
Ian Brand 2019 Old Vine Mourvedre ($47.99) – It is sourced from Enz Vineyard and Lime Kiln Valley. Mourvedre is one of the quintessential old vine grapes of San Benito County, and it has become a battleground among winemakers looking for a share of the harvest. Herendeen Hill described this as “a lovely expression of the epic Enz vineyard,” and there is magic in the way the flavor profiles swirl on the palate as an undercurrent of earthiness provides support. Aged in a combination of new and old barrels, it is a full-bodied rustic wine with notes of black pepper, plum, and blackberries with a light minerality, medium acidity, and controlled tannins. On the higher end of the wines at this tasting, this is still the bottle you bring to impress friends.
Recommendations for future Eat, Drink, Savor articles can be emailed to roberteliason@benitolink.com.
BenitoLink thanks our underwriters, Hollister Super and Windmill Market, for helping to expand the Eat, Drink, Savor series and give our readers the stories that interest them. Hollister Super (two stores in Hollister) and Windmill Market (in San Juan Bautista) support reporting on the inspired and creative people behind the many delicious food and drink products made in San Benito County. All editorial decisions are made by BenitoLink.
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