Holidays: A blend of family and flavors

We like to share the pleasure of families taking a break from busy lives and cooking together over the holidays. San Benito County is made up of families with backgroungs and traditions from all over the world and with that comes a wonderful array of flavors and family histories. From generation to generation, we learn from our grandparents, parents, aunts and uncles. This Christmas, BenitoLink board member Lois Locci shares her clan’s holiday favorite, Panettone.

Panettone Genovese della Famiglia Locci

Unlike the fluffy panettone (big bread) you see in the markets, this Genovese holiday treat—once toasted—fills the kitchen with the aromas of marsala, pine nuts, sweet anise, and citrus. More like a Scottish shortbread in texture (there are centuries of exchanges between Genoa and the British Isles), it must be prepared from scratch and once popped into the oven must be blessed with a sign of the cross.

The Locci Family can’t know how far back the tradition runs, but we can count four generations and 60 Decembers in Italy with 40 in California when the whole family works on the panettone project, flour drifting everywhere, clean hands working the dough till it’s just right, and adding the sacred ingredients one at a time. The Loccis are from Oregina, a neighborhood in Genoa proper. 

For the daring, try making authentic Genovese Panettone by following the recipe in Italian (not Genovese for it’s yet another language). It’s also called Pandolce (sweet bread) and Panettone Basso (low rise). We skip the raisins and the large chunks of citrus and prefer adding lemon and orange rind scraped off our cheese grater. This gives a more delicate taste and texture.

This site provides a step-by-step guide along with basic ingredients and their portions. Add what you like (even chocolate chips) but don’t forego the pine nuts!

This article was provided by Lois Locci. BenitoLink readers are invited to share a holiday family recipe, the origin of it and any family stories associated with the particular flavors and memories that come with it. We are interested in cultural specialties and food from faraway places. Variety is the spice of life. A few paragraphs and a photo of your family members in the kitchen should accompany recipes.

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