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Crave Wine Co. is involved in two extraordinary events this next week that should intrigue and delight local food and wine aficionados: an afternoon of tastings with master winemaker Al DeRose from noon to 2 p.m. on April 7 and a new entry in the Hollister Wine Dinner series curated by chefs Mike Fisher and Becky Herbert from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. on April 13.
“We will be pouring seven wines with Al,” Crave co-owner Mike Kohne said. “Five will be from DeRose Winery, and two will be from his project Alchemy in Chile. Then we will be pairing some very rare and special wines from Bernardus Cellars for the dinner.”
The DeRose Wine Tasting event is $45, and the Bernardus Dinner is $195. Tickets for both events can be purchased through the Crave event calendar.
Fans of local wines should already be familiar with DeRose’s wines. His vineyard is located on part of what was wine pioneer Theophile Vaché’s property. First planted in 1851, it’s the oldest continuous vineyard in California and home to over 40 acres of vines dating before 1906.
“His estate is his true calling card,” Kohne said. “It encompasses the heritage of San Benito County, and Al is the only one working with those historic grapes. But as his Chilean wines demonstrate, Al is also a fastidious and versatile winemaker who is always making something interesting.”
One of the highlights of the tasting will undoubtedly be his 2022 Alchemy Grenache, a varietal he has not previously brought to this country. A Spanish clone of grenache, it is grown 20 miles inland from the Chilean coast in a climate similar to Al’s home vineyard in the Cienega Valley.
“This is kind of our debut with this one,” he said. “It is a little meatier, a little bigger than a standard grenache. It is definitely not light or wimpy. A distributor in Texas liked it, so I brought it up, and it seems to be doing well.”
DeRose described Crave as “the only legit wine bar that has ever popped up in Hollister,” praising its welcoming atmosphere and well-curated selection of wines.
“I think it’s great that they are not just doing pinot and chardonnays,” he said. “By featuring some of the different varietals, it helps bring awareness to some of the different, kind of oddball, varietals we have in this town.”
The tasting will feature the following wines:
- Alchemy 2022 White Angel Sauvignon Blanc: a crisp, acidic and fruity wine fermented in concrete with grapefruit and nectarine notes.
- Alchemy 2022 Grenache: I had a chance to preview this wine, and it is very rounded and smooth with deep dried-fruit notes and savory characteristics.
- DeRose 2018 Viognier: one of DeRose’s signature wines. Bright, very dry, and fun to drink.
- DeRose 2022 Carbonic Cabernet Pfeffer: I have not tried this one and I am looking forward to it. The grapes are sourced from Gimeli Vineyard.
- DeRose 2020 Old Vine Cabernet Pfeffer: a classic San Benito County wine with strawberry and black pepper notes. It’s remarkably versatile in pairing and a delight just to drink on its own.
- DeRose 2021 Super Tuscan: a blend of estate-grown sangiovese, negrette, merlot and cabernet sauvignon
- DeRose 2019 Old Vine Negrette: dry-farmed from some of the oldest vines on the property and, along with cabernet pfeffer, a wine that defines the uniqueness and history of the county.
Later in the week, Fisher and Herbert will stage the Bernardus Dinner at Farmhouse Cafe. Fisher said the menu pays homage to his early career at Carmel Valley’s Bernardus Lodge.
“I wanted it to be representative of their flavors, style, and elegance,” Fisher said. “The menu is definitely one that is over the top, especially for Hollister.”
The six-course meal will be highlighted by seven small-lot wines from Bernardus Winery and will start with an amuse-bouche of assorted canapes including smoked salmon and asparagus vichyssoise.
Kohne has selected the Bernardus 2022 Rose Provence to accompany this course. “This wine is an exciting project that Benardus does with Chateau La Coste in Provence, France,” Kohne said. It is a new wine for them, and this will be one of the first opportunities for the public to try it.”
The first course is a cold dish of poached prawns prepared with seared pineapple, piment d’espelette, and fennel. “Those tropical flavors are refreshing and will go great with the prawns,” Fisher said. “It’s not going to be a salad, but it will replace what we would consider the salad course.” Kohne has paired a Bernardus 2023 Griva Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc with this course
The second course is slow-roasted swordfish with a pistachio crust, asparagus, and a ginger-lime hollandaise.
“I am trying to introduce some new flavors into the classic hollandaise sauce,” Fisher said. I think the sauce’s butteriness will really complement the wine we are serving.” Kohne chose a Bernardus 2022 Sierra Mar Vineyard Chardonnay with this course, saying, “This is a wine that always gets a lot of accolades and many 90-plus scores.”
The third course is smoked pork belly served with dehydrated plot, potato tempura and braised scallions. “I have always been a fan of oakwood smoke and a good pinot noir,” said Fisher. “It is the best part of bacon and an extra thick cut. The meat will be cold smoked first and then roasted in the oven.” Going along with Fisher’s suggestion, Kohne has selected a Bernardus 2021 Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir for this course.
The fourth course is short rib Bourguignon with a wild mushroom serviettenkloß topped with bone marrow and served with celeriac. “Serviettenkloß is basically peasant food, like a bread pudding,” Fisher said. “The short ribs are braised in 75% red wine, and the bone marrow adds an extra layer of fat.”
Kohne has selected two of Bernardus’ classic wines, the 2013 Estate Marinus & the 2018 Estate Marinus Signature. “This is some of the best of the best,” he said. “Bernardus has been very generous in providing us with this wine because they love Mike so much.”
The final course will be cheese: Epoisse served with macerated B&R Farms apricot, and rosemary-walnut toast paired with Bernardus 2019 Griva Vineyard Late-Harvest Sauvignon Blanc. “It is just my take as a savory chef on a final course,” Fisher said. “The cheese has special characteristics and a pungency that people like. It’s got that nice aroma and creamy flavor that pushes the limit just enough”
The DeRose Wine Tasting is $45, and the Bernardus Dinner is $195. Tickets for both events are available by going to the Crave events calendar on its website.
Recommendations for future Eat, Drink, Savor articles can be emailed to roberteliason@benitolink.com.
BenitoLink thanks our underwriters, Hollister Super and Windmill Market, for helping to expand the Eat, Drink, Savor series and give our readers the stories that interest them. Hollister Super (two stores in Hollister) and Windmill Market (in San Juan Bautista) support reporting on the inspired and creative people behind the many delicious food and drink products made in San Benito County. All editorial decisions are made by BenitoLink.
